Then, we got to the airport and waited in the slow-moving NatureAir check-in line with a little more than an hour until our flight. When it's our turn, the agent informs us that we have to pay our "exit tax" (yes, you have to pay $29/person to leave Costa Rica) before we can check-in. Second time set back.
Back to the check-in line with receipt saying "taxes paid". Unfortunately, the agent who helped us must be a not-so-distant relative of the Costa Rican sloth - VERY slow moving. Third time set back. With our paperwork in hand, we head to the security line with 30 minutes to go before the flight.
Only to be turned away because we hadn't filled out our customs paperwork, of so we misunderstood. Off to the corner on the floor to frantically claim that we were carrying no fresh fruits and $200 US dollars. Back to the security line, to be shut down again b/c we are missing a certain paper (we did NOT have to fill out the customs paperwork). Back to the ticket agent asking for a paper I'm not sure we need until Matt runs to find me b/c he figured out that we needed to show our "taxes paid receipt". Fourth and fifth time set backs. It's now15 mins. before our flight.
Shoes off, computers out, stuffies in the grey box and through security we go. Only to be stopped yet again because it turns out the Swiss Army knife I couldn't find ANYWHERE when I was packing earlier that morning was hiding deep in a pocket of my backpack. Ugh! Bye-bye knife. I was SO mad. Run, run, run to Gate 11 with 5 minutes to go just to sit and wait for 15 mins...time enough to have a snack. :)
We were relieved and well-schooled in the ways of the San Jose airport when the colorful twin-prop took off with us on it!
There were thick clouds around San Jose so we weren't able to see much of Eastern Costa Rica until we were just north of the border. Such different terrain - nearly roadless, thick, thick trees, banana plantations (mostly Dole and Chiquita from what we've heard), very few houses and towns. Then we circled over the islands of Bocas del Toro seeing the Caribbean Sea for the first time. Such a different color from the Pacific.
We landed in Bocas Town on Isla Colon, the only actual town in Bocas de Toro and a place to get into and out of as fast as possible. How to describe it? Gross, to put it simply. Trash literally everywhere, stagnant water and whatever else in drainage ditches along the roads, an odd and uncomfortable mix of tourists and locals. Honestly, I have no idea what would bring someone here for vacation. It's one of those places on earth (and I know there are many) where the indigenous culture and people come face to face with the culture of tourism, and it is really just an awful mix. The native people here, the Ngabe (I wrote about them a bit in my updates from Santa Maria) live very remotely and very simply with very few options for education and economic opportunity. So, on one hand, the growth of tourism provides jobs and training opportunities. There are some hotels and resorts that are taking a very proactive and respectful approach to this and most that are not where there is just exploitation and disrespect and very little value placed on the indigenous way of life.
After scampering around town to scrounge up some groceries, we met up with the boat that took us out to Isla Bastimentos, one of the most remote islands in Bocas. It was about a 30 min. boat ride to get us to our first Caribbean pad where we had rented a house - Casa Verde.
Admittedly, we've been a bit unsettled here. This is clearly a remote, tourist, resort-like destination for folks looking to get away, lay on the beach, drink fruity drinks and just hang out. Not so much what we have been doing or been looking to do on this adventure. It is a beautiful beach paradise, it's quiet, the water is gorgeous, so you ask, "What is their problem???!!" I think it's just do different from where we've been and not really how we wanted to end this journey. We miss people and speaking Spanish, and Tico culture.
Lucas, however, is thrilled, because there is a 6-month old Howler monkey living here named Rafiki. We were told that she was orphaned when a tree was cut down killing her mother (later we learned, sadly, that she is just another baby monkey intentionally orphaned by poachers who kill the mothers and then sell the babies to clueless foreigners excited about "rescuing" an orphaned monkey and having it as a pet." Lucas seeks her out all day and in turn, she seeks him out, too! She is truly amazing to watch and hold and play with. She literally wraps herself around you with her 2 hands, 2 feet and incredible tail. The only hard part for Lucas is that she is a nibbler, just doing her baby monkey thing, but she likes to nibble quite hard on any exposed body part. So, her has a love/fear fascination with her. He wants to play with her but needs a protector as well.
There are great dogs here, too, who at times are jealous of and very interested in Rafiki. Rafiki was taking a nap on Matt's shoulders while Matt was being trailed by the dog pack looking for love and also to get to the monkey!
We have had some fun in the sand and swimming a bunch. Lucas had us dig a big hole and then bury him after hearing a story about how we did this with Gus 7 or 8 years ago in Baja. The dogs found his little head sticking up quite mysterious and interesting. Some passersby on the beach didn't realize the hat was connected to a kid buried in the sand!
One more monkey story...one afternoon, Rafiki wondered into the house and immediately found Lucas's backpack full of his friends. A battle ensured between kid and monkey over the beloved Sloth stuffy named Rica.
Lucas eventually won and there was a little love lost, I believe!
We are moving up the beach to Casa Cayuco for the remainder of our stay here. We are looking forward to getting there as it is where we had wanted to stay for our full week but there were booked for the first half. I think it will be a better fit for us.
We are winding down. Lucas has said a couple of times that he is ready to get home to play with Bee and Big Bear and Scout (trusted stuffy friends) and misses Seattle. It is time.
See you very soon!
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